Blog

Jul 02, 2023

Best of Baltimore: Food

Edited by Jane Marion Written by Amy Scattergood and Mike Unger with Lauren Cohen and Suzanne Loudermilk Handlettering by Lienke Raben | Spot Illustrations by Emily Joynton Written By Amy Scattergood

Edited by Jane Marion

Written by Amy Scattergood and Mike Unger with Lauren Cohen and Suzanne Loudermilk

Handlettering by Lienke Raben | Spot Illustrations by Emily Joynton

Written By Amy Scattergood and Mike Unger with Lauren Cohen and Suzanne Loudermilk

Handlettering by Lienke Raben | Spot Illustrations by Emily Joynton

NEW CAFE

This European-style, Lauraville community restaurant, inspired by the foods of the Abruzzo region of Italy, is everything you want in a cafe. The food, generously sized plates of pastas and paninis, is pretty-as-a-picture and made with care, and the ambiance—midcentury modern meets the Mediterranean—invites lingering. Depending on the day, go for lunch and then move onto amaro or a glass of vino or some dinner. If you come early, you can enjoy an expertly made cortado or cappuccino while reading a good book or chatting with husband-and-wife owners Paul and Sam Mincarelli, who are always on hand to tell you about seasonal specials or make small talk.

ALFRESCO DINING

Dining alfresco at this steakhousestandard, located in the heart ofhunt country, has always beena pastoral pleasure, but after arecent renovation (here’s lookingat you, Patrick Sutton), the historicproperty is more stunning thanever. Follow the footbridge at TheOregon Grille—now under theownership of the Atlas RestaurantGroup—to one of the newest andmost picturesque patios around.From the massive stone fireplaceand gorgeous bluestone flooring tothe string lights, topiary plantings,and live music, it’s the scene-iestseat in an always-packed house.Also, eating en plein air makes thealready delicious food (you had usat filet mignon with truffle butter)taste even better.

AMBIANCE

Sometimes we get tired of the sametrendy design details that seemubiquitous at every new spot—thesmall LED table lights, the coolgray walls, the electric fireplaces.Enter Ash Bar. Situated inside thehipster Ulysses hotel, the new Mt.Vernon spot oozes glamour. Whilesipping on Sidecars, we feel oh-so-stylishjust sitting in the spacewith its plush purple velvet chairs(made by 138-year-old Frenchfurniture designer Maison Drucker),red banquettes embroidered withexotic animals, mood lighting, andhigh-gloss burled wood walls andceilings. The whole place is meant toevoke an old dining car of a steamtrain or a luxury ocean liner. Inother words, Ash is smoking hot.

BARBECUE

Nearly everything about GeorgeMarsh’s barbecue joint is perfect.The brisket so flavorful that saucingit seems like a sin. The proper,ever-so-slight pull needed to getthe heavenly pork off the bones ofthe dry-rubbed spareribs. The chef-drivenspecials that elevate typicalbarbecue joint fare. In late May wehad shrimp and sausage boudin,a Cajun delicacy not often foundin these parts. It was outstanding.The smell from the smoker in theparking lot out back lures us inevery time we’re near, and we’veyet to be disappointed. That’s right,Heritage has a parking lot. We toldyou the place is perfect.

BRUNCH

Breakfast places are popping uparound Baltimore faster thantoasted bread. But one standsout—Easy Like Sunday in TheVillage of Cross Keys. Sean andAnna MacCuish (daughter of G&ARestaurant owners Andrew “Andy”and Alexia Farantos) partneredwith Antonios Kokolis to open acharming space in the former VillageSquare Café in March. They’vetransformed the indoor dining areawith eclectic chandeliers, driedflowerbouquets, and greenery.The all-American menu, with nodsto global ingredients, is full oftemptations, with dishes like a wow-worthybrunch burger with cowboybacon (cooked with maple syrup andsprinkled with red-pepper flakes),short-rib hash, and ricotta-stuffedFrench toast. And who doesn’t wanta mimosa sampler?

RAW BAR

This town has a plethora of places to slurp oysters and enjoy elaborate displaysof seafood on ice. But this Fells Point mainstay is a cut above the other raw bars,with its impressive array of oysters—at least 12 different varieties from the Eastand West Coasts, plus Canada—quahogs, Maine lobster claws, and massiveshrimp. If you really want to impress, consider a deluxe “grandiose” shellfishtower, rife with fruits of the sea and an assortment of outstanding mignonettesand sauces. Here’s how you know it’s pro: They use freshly grated horseradishin their cocktail sauce. Sit among the A. Aubrey Bodine photographs and watchthe boats floating on the Patapsco—or settle in for some Chesapeake oysters andmaybe a local ale at the beautiful wooden bar.

COFFEE SPOT

There’s a reason why the hip UnionMill mainstay is always buzzing, nomatter when you go. Of course, thecoffee program—featuring blendsfrom Washington, D.C.’s Small Planesroastery—is as reliable as ever, withexotic offerings like lavender lattesand Japanese iced coffee. But formore than a decade, Artifact hasalso been churning out some of thebest breakfast and lunch fare in thegame (while upholding itsunwavering commitment to regionalsourcing). If it’s been a while sinceyou’ve visited, go for the BrunchBanh Mi, layered with eggs, bacon,herby mayo, and crisp radishes.Another winner: the savory HamJam biscuit, topped with cheddar,slow-cooked kale, and pepper jelly.

COMFORT FOOD

This family-friendly dive bar has allthe things: oozy mac and cheese,addictive smashburgers, double-pepperonipies, and a menu filledwith well-appointed stoner junkfood, including a pizza toppedwith pulverized Doritos. At thiscozy, quirky bar on a Canton streetcorner, you can sit in the boothwith your kids or sidle up to thebar with your drinking buddies—ordo both. Opened by Baltimore-born,Top Chef alum Jesse Sandlinin 2022, The Dive is open late fora “hot dog party” of foot-long hotdogs, and has a pickle pizza that, ifit’s not already your go-to comfortfood, soon will be. Fried bolognasandwiches? Check. Frozen bluemargaritas? Check. French oniondisco fries? Double check.

FOOD HALL

The flagship of Baltimore’s publicmarket system, Lexington Marketjust got a $45-million reboot, andit’s put that money where ourmouths are. The storied market—founded in 1782, it’s the longest-runningpublic market in thecountry—now fills a 60,000-square-foot,two-floor complex withover two dozen vendors, and anemphasis on Black- and women-ownedbusinesses. Anchoringthe market are legacy folks likeFaidley’s Seafood, Super FriedChicken, and Buffalo Bill’s, whilenewer stalls like Connie’s Chickenand Waffles, Trinacria, and Ovenbirdinvigorate the experience. TheBaltimore Museum of Art has aspace, as does a fourth-generationcobbler and Market Bakery, openat the market since 1972 and stillmaking Berger cookies.

FOODIE FIELD TRIP

The wine alone is well worth the 45-minute drive to this family-operatedfarm in Carroll County, butthese days, a visit to the gorgeousgrounds of Old Westminster Winerygoes well beyond just tastings andtours. Throughout its 10 years,Old Westminster has evolved intoan all-out celebration of Marylandagriculture—complete with its owncoffee, cocktail, pastry, and woodfiredpizza programs. Before you go,reserve a patio table or spring for aprivate greenhouse to eat your waythrough the locally sourced snacks(the prosciutto and arugula pie, forexample, features Migrash flour,Caputo Brothers mozzarella, andChesapeake Farm to Table arugula)while cracking a canned wine orpopping a pét-nat.

SUGAR FIX

BAKERY

Keiller Kyle’s breads load the shelvesat his Little Italy bakery: boules of sourdough,squares of focaccia, rows ofbagels, plus a case featuring cakes andcookies. To lessen the line outside, Kyleopened a stall at Lexington Market andhas a flagship bakery to come.

CANDY

The fact that Jinji Fraser has to put alimit on how many peanut butter-stuffeddried Turkish figs you can buy ata time says it all. Don’t despair, there’sstill plenty to love, including pralines,barks, and truffles at this BelvedereSquare stand.

ICE CREAM

Abundantly flavorful and creamy,Taharka excels at simple flavors (roastedstrawberry) and concoctions(matcha mochi). Some of the bestare odes to local heroes, like Keep YaHead Up, a blackberry oat crumblenamed for a Tupac Shakur song.

PÂTISSERIE

This Fells Point pâtisserie presents morelike a jewelry shop than a bakery, with apastry case loaded with works of art in apalette of colors: cornflower-blue EarlGrey petit gateaux, pink coconut-lycheeeclairs, and a rainbow display ofFrench macarons, which come in fancifuliterations like rose and gingerbread.

SNO-BALLS

Ice Queens, a Black-owned family businessin Locust Point, opened in 2020 ina tiny corner shop in an old rowhouseon Fort Avenue. An irresistible menuincludes blue raspberry, whiskey sour,and, of course, egg custard.

GOURMET TO-GO

For home cooks, the experience ofstepping into this beautifully curatedmarket in the heart of Pigtown ispure wonderment. Not only doeschef/owner Sylva Lin offer a coffeebar, sandwich menu, and a variety ofhouse-baked goods, she also keepsthe place packed to the gills witheverything from local meat andproduce (sourced from Moon Valleyand Agriberry farms) to pantry itemsand treats near and far. (On a recentvisit, we picked up cheesecake-flavoredKit Kats from Japan.)Whether you’re curating a meal orneed a last-minute ingredient (tinnedsalmon, gochujang sauce), CA’s gotthe goods.

HOSPITALITY HERO

Last March, when a white carplunged off Pier Six into the InnerHarbor, Phillips Seafood sous chefTom Walsh, who happened to bein the restaurant on his day off,dove into the Patapsco to save thestranger trapped in the fast-sinkingcar. Walsh helped break the glassto bring the passenger to safety(and was later treated at an areahospital for cuts to his hands). Thehumble hero turned down offersof publicity, though others feltdifferently about Walsh’s show ofselflessness. “Give the sous chef thekey to the city,” posted one personon Twitter. We couldn’t agree more.

LOBSTER ROLL

Chef David Quiroz at Charly’sSue Creek in Essex reels in dinerswith creative dishes like seafoodnachos, deep-dish pizzas, andKorean-influenced burgers, but themust-have menu item is a palate-pleasinglobster roll. It’s a pricybut sumptuous treat ($33) to enjoyindoors at the waterfront restaurantor outside on the deck or courtyard.You won’t be disappointed withthe pileup of buttery Maine lobstertucked into a toasted, split-top bunand paired with deliciously saltedFrench fries. If you need extrabutter, of course you do, there’s anaccompanying dish of the meltedelixir to add to your sandwich.

MEXICAN FOOD

Rosalyn Vera’s Fells Point taqueria isa deceptively small, modest place—a counter and some chairs frontinga bustling kitchen inside and a fewmore chairs out on the sidewalk. Butthe restaurant turns out remarkablefood worthy of a spot many timesits size: from beautifully constructedtamales to punchy bowls of pozoleserved during weekend brunch toelaborate tortas to the myriad tacos,loading made-to-order tortillas builtwith fresh Masienda masa. Althoughevery day is a good day for tacos,go on Fridays, when Vera and herfamily make tinga, a chipotle-spikedchicken stew, and birria, the beefstew from Jalisco. Get as many birriatacos as you can manage—and adozen warm tortillas to take home.

BURGER

A burger tastes best when its components work in concert. It also helps to use top-notchground beef, which isn’t a problem for this Remington restaurant with anattached butcher shop. The cheeseburger at JBGB's—short for John Brown General& Butchery—shines because it achieves perfect harmony. Two four-ounce griddledpatties are topped with house-made pickles, smothered in a Big Mac-type sauce,covered with shredded lettuce, and enhanced with mustard. It all fits between ahigh-quality bun that somehow contains this juicy, decadent creation without disintegrating. Served with a heaping of fresh-cut, perfectly crisp fries, it’s enough food for two to split. But we won’t be doing that—we want this baby all to ourselves.

NEW RESTAURANT

Ever since Salt Tavern’s closingin 2018, we’ve eagerly waitedfor the Butchers Hill space to bebrought back to life. In late 2022,the wait was finally over—andwow, was it worth it. With Marta,owner-chef Matthew Oetting putsa sophisticated spin on Italianstandards and makes them newagain. Think ravioli stuffed withduck and foie gras or a luxe lobstercacciatore. The renovated 1904space is warm and inviting, withgranny-chic wallpaper and anintimate bar area serving terrificcraft cocktails, too. During thepandemic, when dining out felt likea distant dream, this is exactly thekind of place we fantasized about—an intimate neighborhood spotthat’s both chic and convivial.

OLD-SCHOOL PIZZA

What makes this tiny, takeout-onlyGardenville pizza joint special? Gil’smenu is as basic as it gets. Pizza and pizza only. The pies are all one size,which is just a tad too big for thebox. Cheese is $10.25; toppings$1.75 each. Every pizza emergesfrom the oven like the one beforeit, and the tens of thousands beforethat—piping hot with perfectlymelted cheese, sauce with just ahint of sweetness, and delightfullydoughy crust. While you wait,check out the photo of the 1944International League championBaltimore Orioles. Gil’s opened in1958 and has been doing thingsjust about the same way ever since.What makes this tiny takeout-onlypizza joint special? Everything.

RAMEN

The Inner Harbor’s Ramen Utsukeis the second ramen-ya from Osakanative Shigehiko Okiebisu andhis family, who also own Kippoin Fells Point. Open since 2019,Utsuke turns out bowls of Hakatastyletonkotsu ramen much likeKippo’s, but showcases a largermenu with more vegetarian bowls.So there’s shio ramen made withwafu dashi broth—a combinationof bonito and kelp—and a creamyvariation that includes soy milk.You’re here, though, for the blackand red tonkotsu ramen, builtaround rich pork broth and toppedwith slices of pork chashu, as wellas woodear mushrooms, scallions,bean sprouts, and a bright orange-yolkedegg. The black is from blackgarlic oil; the red from spicy chileoil. And if you can possibly still behungry, there are taiyaki ice-creamsandwiches for dessert.

SERVICE

Now more than ever, a goodserver can be hard to find. But atCharleston, an unerring waitstaffis as important as any otherelement of the experience. Here,the service—neither overly rushednor so slow that you’re ready for anap—never wavers. Dinner startswith a server who arrives withSwiss-timing efficiency to take yourdrink order. Then, after you’ve hadtime to settle in, you’re presentedwith the multi-course tasting menuto ponder. (Each dish is describedin mouth-watering detail.) Once thecourses start to come, the timingbetween them is perfection. OnCharleston’s watch, you’ll want fornothing—from extra cornbreadto new napkins, and even readingglasses (if you’ve forgotten yoursat home). There’s a reason that thisHarbor East fine-dining den earneda James Beard nomination forOutstanding Hospitality in 2023.

SUSHI

Located in a small, unpretentiousColumbia shopping mall, this family-owned-and-operated Japaneserestaurant has been offering excellentsushi since 1987. Despite the bells and whistles—raised tatami roomswith sandals lined up at the entrance,servers dressed in kimonos—the sushibar is welcoming and unpretentiousand serves a fine menu of toro, uni,sea bream, yellowtail, eel, and otherstandards, plus daily specials thatcan include monkfish liver and softshellcrab. There are also elaborate,colorful rolls showcasing lobster, roe,tempura, oysters, and various sauces,if you want something more intricatethan nigiri. We like the purist options,particularly the toro and sea bream.

THAI

Walking into this second locationof Porntipa Pattanamekar’s Thai restaurant excites the senses. TheColumbia dining room is lively andcolorful, much like the food itself.An extensive drink selection thatincludes coffees, fruit teas, andmocktails is a good place to start.Can’t-miss dishes abound. Amongthe house specials, lychee duckcurry, spicy tilapia in mango sauce,and red curry salmon all live up tothe spicy symbol that accompaniestheir names on the menu. Green,yellow, and panang curries also areavailable, along with fine versionsof fried rice, drunken noodles, andthe owner’s special-recipe padThai. Its thin rice noodles, roastedpork, egg, bok choy, peanuts, beansprouts, and spicy-sweet soy saucecreate a symphony of flavors youwon’t soon forget.

INSTAGRAM WINNER

Food Influencer

With all due respect to the trade,some food influencers care moreabout their 15 minutes of famethan whatever restaurant they’retouting. Chris Franzoni (@eatmorebemore) is not aboutputting himself in the limelight.Instead, as he eats his way throughCharm City posting fun-filled pics,themed reels, and TikTok videos, heshines a spotlight (and sometimesa LitraPro LED light) on Baltimore’svibrant restaurant scene.His earnestness has earned him151,000 followers to date,making him a sort of culinaryconcierge for Charm City.

TORCHBEARER

What started as a part-time hobbyfor her, paging through old recipesin the stacks of heritage cookbooksat the Enoch Pratt Library and thencooking the dishes at home, hasbecome Kara Mae Harris’s mission,as she revives long-forgottenMaryland recipes. Through her blog,Old Line Plate, and a new cookbook,Festive Maryland Recipes, Harrisdips into the past with dishes likedeviled fish sticks, stuffed ham, andshad roe croquettes to celebrate ourstate and bring vintage recipes—and Maryland history—back tolife. Along the way, she’s inspiredchefs like Woodberry Tavern’s SpikeGjerde, who calls her work “a greatresource. It’s a living, active partof what we do here,” says Gjerde.“One of the reasons our cuisine hasnot been celebrated as much as, say,Low Country or Creole and Cajuncooking is because we haven’t hadfolks like Kara doing the research.There’s a larger benefit to her workto chronicle, and by extensioncelebrate, the cooking of theChesapeake region.”

VEGAN

Opened a dozen years ago byhusband-and-wife team NaijhaWright-Brown and Gregory Brown,Land of Kush is a cozy, art-filledspace in Mt. Vernon that sports aneclectic plant-based menu that willreassure anyone worried aboutmissing flavor along with dairy andmeat. There are vegan iterationsof barbecue ribs, chicken tenders,mac and cheese—and, this beingBaltimore, crab cakes made withseitan—and a wealth of side dishes.The jollof rice is addictive, as is thegarlic-spiked raw kale salad. Thecollard greens, smoked and jackedwith peppers, is better than mostthat rely on ham for seasoning.There’s also brunch, with glutenfreepancakes, veggie sausage, and“chickUn” and waffles, which itself isworth the trip.

CHINESE FOOD

When this cog in celebrated chef Peter Chang’s culinary empire opened in 2020,it received critical acclaim from magazines near (Baltimore) and far (Esquire, whonamed it one of America’s best new restaurants). Despite those accolades, it closedearlier this year to recalibrate. When it reopened in February, the result was amore approachable but no less successful menu. The new version hypes Chang—his photo and rave reviews dot the exterior of the building and the back of thetake-out menu—and his influence is found everywhere. While the outstandingsignature Peking duck is thankfully still here, it’s now joined by recognizabledishes like Kung Pao chicken, fried rice, and lo mein. Once again, NiHao has earnedits way back onto our pages.